Description
Due to many customer requests, we have hand matched all the electric home distillery parts for this DIY heat controller kit together so that you don’t have to! The DIY heating element is based around a 40 Amp Solid State Relay so that it can withstand the 30-amp current of a typical household 240V source at higher temperatures.
As with a lot of the individual heat controller parts, we do a large portion of the pre-assembly so that you do not need to go out and buy specialized tools and supplies to assemble this electric heater controller. We have pre-fastened the SSR to the heatsink with thermal paste and we have cut wires and soldered them to the controlling potentiometer so that all you need to do is screw the wire ends to the control terminals of the SSR. The only things you will need to do to assemble this DIY heat controller is to cut out an opening for the ammeter and holes for the cable glands, strip some wire, and wire everything together (with screw terminals, no soldering required). Check out this helpful DIY Heat Controller video for directions on how to assemble the electric home distillery kit.
This DIY distiller heating element Includes:
-40 Amp Solid State Relay
-Aluminum heat-sink
-Thermal paste and screws connecting the heatsink to the Solid State Relay
-Potentiometer, complete with pre-soldered wires
-Rubberized knob
–Enclosure box and cable glands with locking nuts
–30 amp ammeter with current transformer
–Electric Heating Element Guard Kit
-4500W Electric Heating Element
-4 ft. of power cord
-4 ft. of power cord with a 3-prong 220V plug (can substitute a 4-prong plug upon request).
Please note that the 240V LimeLife elements are to long to fit in the 8 gallon boiler.
James R. –
This set up, is worth the money. Using a 1500 watt burner on 110, takes me 6 hours for 5 gallons of wash using a 2 inch column. Running the 13 gallon rig/same old column, (I bought the 13 gallon boiler here and LOVE It,) using this heat regulator/relay/controller I can run 10 gallons in a little over 3 hours, that’s about.crap…you do the math. Additionally using 220 versus 110 saves you money, not only in cooking duration but 220 is the more efficient than the 110 by leaps and bounds. You could omit this regulator/relay and plug right in to your wall plug but it will run FULL ON which could cause a problem. Without this or a similar unit, it’s the equivalent of running a car with the throttle stuck full on and no brakes. This unit gives you the ability to control the heat/flow/production in which low and slow/medium, versus fast and furious produces FAR superior product. I hate working with electric stuff but this was easy. One of your hot wires (from the wall plug) goes to the regulator, the other to the Amp meter, (doesn’t matter which wire goes where except for that middle/ground wire.) The other cord goes one wire to the regulator and the other to the amp. Again it doesn’t matter which goes where. The middle ground wire and the green ground from your other cord goes to a ground which I just attached on the screw connecting to the heat sink/relay combo to the regulator mounting hole I drilled in the black box. The potentiometer/pot, (the knob and round thing with two small wires) go to the other end (bottom) of the regulator/relay/heat sink unit posts which DOES NOT have the word "load" on it.Hook them up. Get it if you buy the distiller that accommodates this unit.